 | | | Photo A.K. Carroll | | | | | | Fall has arrived and harvest is on its way. While many Lamorindans will trek north for the long-standing traditions and overpriced accommodations of California's Napa Valley, consider heading the opposite direction.
An autumn weekend in Napa will get you sunny hills and trendy tasting rooms, as well hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic as you crawl up the freeway, eager for the moment you'll have a glass in hand. But take a turn south on California's scenic coastal highway, and head for the equally lovely but far less audacious wine country of the central coast. For small town charm and abundant harvest festivities at a fraction of the price, set your sights toward Paso Robles.
The trip down to Paso can be a long one - roughly six hours if you take the scenic route and go by way of Big Sur - so take your time traveling and plan for plenty of snapshots as you meander down California's breathtakingly beautiful Highway 1, less crowded as of late on account of recent fires. Though most parks are closed, epic views remain unobstructed. (For a quicker trip, trek inland on highway 101. You'll miss the ocean, but you'll make it in a fraction of the time.)
A morning departure will land you in Monterey or Carmel just in time for lunch. If you leave the evening before, consider staying the night at the classic Cypress Inn. Owned by cinema star Doris Day, the dog-friendly Cypress was the original place to overnight with your pooch. Grab a bite at Monterey's Poke Lab, a fast-casual concept that is the Chipotle of this fishy specialty, or check out Carmel's Cultura, an authentic Oaxacan-inspired restaurant and bar that boasts fresh, innovative dishes, Old World ambiance, and an exclusive selection of smoky mezcals. If you're itching to set foot in a state park, pack a picnic and make a detour through ruggedly lovely Point Lobos.
Continue down Highway 1, stopping at Big Sur bakery on your way. A second pit stop at San Simeon will give you the opportunity to spy some elephant seals and allow for a late-afternoon arrival in the quaint central square of Paso. This year's annual Harvest Wine Weekend is slated for Oct. 14-16 and will include over 140 activities, from ceremonial grape stomping and onsite barrel tastings to food-pairing events, live music, and a CABs of Distinction grand tasting showcasing Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux varietals from over 75 local vineyards.
Whether or not you make it for the harvest festivities, you'll want to snag a reservation at Villa Creek, where San Luis Obispo County culinary icon Maegan Loring has recently taken over the kitchen. A winemakers' hangout with farm-to-table practice and their own in-house winery, the spacious patio and indoor dining rooms provide a casually elegant space where thoughtful food, like basil risotto topped with apple fennel slaw, is served alongside a comprehensive wine list that leans heavily toward Paso.
Taste the latest vintages from Paso's 200-plus wineries by way of vineyard tours, tasting rooms, or one of nine pre-planned wine trails. Many Paso vineyards are SIP (Sustainability in Practice) certified, with Fall has arrived and harvest is on its way. While many Lamorindans will trek north for the long-standing traditions and overpriced accommodations of California's Napa Valley, consider heading the opposite direction.
An autumn weekend in Napa will get you sunny hills and trendy tasting rooms, as well hours of bumper-to-bumper traffic as you crawl up the freeway, eager for the moment you'll have a glass in hand. But take a turn south on California's scenic coastal highway, and head for the equally lovely but far less audacious wine country of the central coast. For small town charm and abundant harvest festivities at a fraction of the price, set your sights toward Paso Robles.
The trip down to Paso can be a long one - roughly six hours if you take the scenic route and go by way of Big Sur - so take your time traveling and plan for plenty of snapshots as you meander down California's breathtakingly beautiful Highway 1, less crowded as of late on account of recent fires. Though most parks are closed, epic views remain unobstructed. (For a quicker trip, trek inland on highway 101. You'll miss the ocean, but you'll make it in a fraction of the time.) ... continued on page B8 some, like boutique winery Jada, implementing biodynamic farming practices. Sample sips at Calcareous, a spacious hilltop winery on the western edge of the AVA (American Viticultural Area). Overlooking the Salinas Valley and the Santa Lucia mountain range, Calcareous is named for the shale abundant in the soil on which the vineyard is situated. Its estate vintages uniquely evidence the limestone and shale of the terroir.
Also worth a visit is Oso Libre, a 90-acre ranch where farming grapes and raising livestock is a lifestyle as well as an occupation. Eat tasty Angus burgers on the grounds where the cattle were raised and watch Olde English baby doll sheep play beside alpacas during Saturday burger events.
When you've had your fill of big reds and estate blends, mosey over toward Templeton and grab a pint at Firestone Walker or Barrelhouse Brewing Company, a local microbrewery with a 10-tap tasting room and spacious outdoor beer garden (cornhole included). Next, check out downtown Paso for a small town feel and slower pace. Hit up Spearhead Coffee for the best third-wave coffee in the region, stop in at Brown Butter Cookie Company to sample one of their six scrumptious varieties, and peruse the shelves of the General Store, a specialty store and gift shop that was first established as a mercantile 100 years ago. Sample their famous almond-brittle, custom blend local olive oil and signature Pasotastic ice cream, a sheep's milk delicacy made by Negranti Creamery. You can also make or pick up custom gift baskets and bring a little Paso home.
After two or three days of sun-filled afternoons and jacket-clad evenings, drive back to Lamorinda refreshed rather than frazzled, taking a bit of Paso's homespun hospitality with you.
Possibilities for Paso Fun:
Paso Robles Wine Weekend:
www.pasowine.com/events/harvest
Villa Creek:
1144 Pine St., Paso Robles
www.villacreek.com
Jada:
5620 Vineyard Dr., Paso Robles
www.jadavineyard.com
Calcareous:
3430 Peachy Canyon Rd., Paso Robles, www.calcareous.com
Oso Libre:
7383 Vineyard Dr., Paso Robles
www.osolibre.com
Barrelhouse Brewing Company:
3055 Limestone Way, Paso Robles
www.barrelhousebrewing.com
Brown Butter Cookie:
801 12th St., Paso Robles
www.brownbuttercookies.com
Spearhead Coffee:
619 12th St., Paso Robles
www.spearheadcoffee.com
General Store:
841 12th St., Paso Robles
www.generalstorepr.com
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Lamorinda Weekly, Moraga CA