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"I wasn't sure how to take care of grapes, and received an education from my landscaper and a wine guy," stated Hillis. The next thing he knew, Hillis was busy fertilizing and giving fungal treatments made of a sulfur compound to his vines (two cabernet sauvignon, two zinfandel, and six merlot) that would prevent mildew through Moraga's micro-climate and occasional morning fog. Summer heat waves can also have an adverse affect on the grape-growing process even with the proper irrigation.
Feeling confident enough to expand, the following year Hillis added an additional 18 vines (14 cabernet sauvignon and four cabernet franc -- "to bring out the flavor"). This year saw a planting of six more vines (sangiovese) in the hopes of producing chianti, with a blend of 70% sangiovese and a 30% mix of merlot/cabernet sauvignon. However, he'll have to wait a bit. "It takes about 3-4 years before you get grapes," he explained. "But, the roots grow really deep once the vine is established."
About two months before Hillis spots actual grapes on his vines, he puts netting around them to keep the birds and other critters from eventually munching on the fruit. "I'm the caretaker through the year," he said. "I call the wine guy [Brian Wheeler] when my grapes are starting to turn purple, and he performs periodic tests for sweetness before he finally picks them."
This year's harvest is scheduled to take place between late August and early September. Wheeler is responsible for the grapes and eventual wine from the minute he leaves with the harvest. The grapes are crushed immediately, and according to Hillis yeast, sulfur dioxide, and oak chips are added to the mix. A process called "racking" begins when fermented wine is transferred from one carboy (typically a 5-gallon jug) to another to erase the sediment or "leeds" from the bottom of the jug in order to have a clearer wine juice. The final product, his bottled wine, gets delivered back to Hillis in March.
Producing approximately three-and-a-half cases of wine each year, the "Hillis House" label sports a colorful image of a monarch butterfly - an homage to the Moraga Garden Club's efforts to save the endangered species. As an added touch, the 2024 label carries the royal blue seal (depicted on town-wide banners) honoring Moraga's 50th anniversary of incorporation. Each bottle is sealed with a wax cap for added elegance. For the most part, Hillis keeps the final product in careful storage at home for personal consumption, but acknowledges that he's given bottles away as gifts.
Hillis admits that being a winegrower takes a lot of time and work, but "It's a labor of love."
Reach the reporter at:
Lamorinda Weekly, Moraga CA